Sports Photography
Gearing Up for Great Sports Photography
During my three decades of photography experience, I have covered all sorts of sports assignments in different parts of the world, from Stanley Cups and Super Bowls, to World Championships and numerous Summer and Winter Olympic Games.
From world records in track and field, unbelievable golf performances, exciting Formula One Grand Prix and devastating downhill ski crashes, I have seen through my viewfinder the thrill of victory and the agony of defeat.
So just what does it take to make a great sports image? Here are some essential tips to becoming a sports photographer.
1) KNOW YOUR SPORT
This is probably the most important tip I could give a photographer covering a sports event. Knowing the sport is just as important whether you’re covering your kid’s baseball game or a Major League game. You have to understand how a sport is played if you are to position yourself to capture a great sport image. If you’re not very familiar with a particular sport, ask a coach to give you some tips on where to stand and what to watch for.
During the first rodeo I ever covered in 1979, I hadn’t a clue as to what was going to happen. I went over and asked an old cowboy to give me the ABC’s of what to look for at a rodeo. He took my schedule of events and circled three bucking broncos and three riders to watch for and even told me in detail what to watch for with each bronco and rider. I followed his advice closely and became the newspaper’s rodeo specialist based on the photos I submitted to the photo editor that day.
2) KNOW THE PLAYERS
Just as important as knowing your sport is knowing the players. If an athlete is particularly strong in a position or event, you need to know that so that you can position yourself to capture a great image.
In team field sports, this is particularly important. Take soccer for instance. If a right winger is a strong player and is of interest to you, your chances of getting a great action shot of him or her vastly improve if you position yourself on the defending team’s goaltender’s left side, to see the right winger on the attack. Simply by choosing this position you have increased your chances of a great shot by 75%.
3) KNOW THE RULES FOR PHOTOGRAPHY
All sports have a set of rules for participants and the same goes for photographers covering sports. From your kids’ sporting events to the Olympics, there are rules for photographers. If you are unsure of these ask the referee or another photographer where you can photograph from and if you can use certain kinds of equipment, like tripods or flash, for instance.
4) HAVE A PLAN
Armed with knowing your sport, knowing the players, and the rules for photography, you can now come up with a plan to cover that game or event. I will usually write down a shot list for my coverage of the event so I don’t miss a key element, player, or photo of the game. Every aspect of the event is important to look at and will yield different kinds of pictures. Here is an example of the key elements I consider when creating a shot list:
* Player warm-ups—a great time to get some clean shots of the players with headgear off
* Teams entering the field of play and their adrenaline rush
* The National Anthem and the sometimes-dramatic lighting
* On-field action—listen to sports radio to get an overview of the game as it progresses
* Weather shots—for example, when it rains or in cold weather, you can sometimes capture steam coming off the players
* The coaches and benches, if you have access to them—they can make for some great shots
* Behind the main play, as sometimes good photographs can be captured there
* The crowd—watch for crazed fans and celebrities attending the game
* End of game—prepare for these photos and position yourself to get the victorious team or players’ jubilation or the look of dejection on the defeated team or player
* An overview of the field of play, possibly with fans in the foreground
5) CHOOSE YOUR EQUIPMENT
Don’t take all your photo gear to the game: only what you plan to use for each of your shots. Trying to carry all your gear around while covering a sporting event will only wear you out, and like a professional athlete, you need to be at the top of your game if you are to capture truly great sports images.
Make sure you have enough spare batteries and memory cards to cover the game. And make sure you format all your memory cards before the game starts. There is nothing worse than sticking in an unformatted 64GB memory card, only to find after a few minutes of shooting that you get a “memory card full” warning because you had used it to photograph your brother’s wedding and you only had 4GB of free memory space when you loaded the card into your camera.
6) DO YOUR HOMEWORK
Observe all aspects of the sport and the venue when you arrive, and prepare the best you can for the unexpected photo when it presents itself. If you have the opportunity, watch and make notes at team and athlete practices. This will give you a great insight on what routine or move an athlete may attempt during competition. Talk to coaches and trainers about their athletes and plans for an event.
When I started covering the 100-meter dash at international competition level I spent hours talking to the coaches of the 100-meter dash stars to learn more about their athletes. They had a plan to run 100 meters, 1 meter at a time, and had goals at each second of a race that lasted under 10 seconds. I could devise a photographic plan based on the information I had learned and could see though my lens those race plans unfold.
FINAL THOUGHTS
Know your equipment. Today’s modern digital cameras are amazing tools, but like any craftsman you have to know how to set up your tools and practice your craft. The autofocus systems in cameras today are extremely complex and you need to pay particular attention to choosing the right autofocus options to match your photographic situation. Sometimes using manual focus will be a better choice than any autofocus option you may have on your camera.
Timing. Stay calm behind the viewfinder. Choose your shot carefully and don’t just rattle off streams of pictures and fill your camera’s buffer up before that decisive moment occurs.
Shutter lag. This is the time it takes a camera to actuate the shutter after the shutter button is pushed. In today’s photo gear it’s almost nonexistent, but there is a lag in your eye-to-hand coordination (the time it takes for your eye to see the action and your brain to process the information and tell your finger to push the shutter button) that you may have to account for when trying to capture that peak action. And remember, even the fastest motor driven sequences can sometimes miss that peak moment of action. Just try shooting a boxer delivering that knockout punch right at the moment his glove hits the chin of his opponent.
Remember “P” is for Planning not Panic! As you can see from the six steps outlined here, planning is a major component of sports photography. From fast reliable memory cards and charged batteries through to doing your homework and checking your gear before the event starts it is all part of great sports photography.
- Published in PhotoBlog
Bear Cameras
[box]Update: The trail cameras I use were left on a tributary of the Pitt River for four weeks resulting in some unique footage of Grizzly and Black Bears. This footage over 8 gigabytes in all showed Grizzly Bears and Black Bears hunting for salmon day and night sometimes in close proximity. It also showed that Black Bears are poor hunters of live salmon and the Grizzly Bears of the Pitt River are a little better at it. The video called The Fishing Bears of the Pitt River was primarily made with the Bushnell Trophy cameras and additional footage was filmed with a Nikon D7000 and the Nikon Coolpix AW100 underwater digital camera. For more on the Bushnell Trophy cameras read on. [/box]
I have been receiving a few questions on theTV news item showing a Grizzly Bear video I captured in the Upper Pitt River (the Global TV report is linked here).
The footage captured by a remote game camera became newsworthy as it showed a Grizzly Bear trying to catch salmon in an area just 30 miles from Vancouver, B.C and in an area they are not known to live. I have been using remote cameras since the late 1970s mostly working at sporting events or aerial photography, but these game cameras are amazingly simple and fun to operate.
My original YouTube of the Grizzly Bear can be viewed here, see the Grizzly Bears fishing in the Pitt River Valley . Most of the questions I get are about the camera I used to capture the footage and how does the camera work. The cameras I used are “Game or Trophy Cameras” normally used by hunters to see what game comes and goes from their hunting areas and there are many of these cameras on the market. They cost between $200 – $500 dollars and are available at most large hunting/sporting goods retailers. I did a lot of research earlier this year on the cameras brands, models and features and finally settled on the Bushnell “Trophy HD” Trophy Cam (Color Model).
The camera shoots either video or still images with a maximum pixel size of 8 megapixels in still mode or 1920×1080 HD Video. It also has a Infrared nighttime mode assisted by 8 IR LED lighting which can’t be seen with the eye and carries to about 45 feet. It will shoot up to 60 seconds of video at a session and still images at user programmable intervals.
Twelve “AA” batteries power the camera and takes SD cards of up to 32gb in size. Make sure to get large memory cards, as the battery life is remarkable. And in video mode I placed the camera in the field for 2 weeks and captured over 16 gigabytes of data barely affecting the batteries. The camera is also water resistant which means it can be left in the field under the most inclement weather conditions.
The camera I use also has a small LCD screen so that test video can be taken and viewed in the field to check the angle of your shot. The setup of the cameras is not exactly intuitive when using the menus and I would suggest careful reading of the manual and shooting of some test videos at home before you head out into the bush.
The mounting of the camera is not as simple as it seems. Using the strap to attach the camera to a tree is simple enough, but refining the angle to get your shot requires putting a shim (a small stick for instance) to adjust the camera to shoot up or down a little. There is an accessory tree mount you can get for under $20, which will make the mounting of the camera a simple matter (see the links below). I also carry a small level to make sure the video shot has a straight horizon.
Other considerations
Place your camera carefully think about the game, the trails and feeding locations of the creatures you want to capture. Make sure the camera has a clear sightline (no overhanging trees, or bushes) and try not to disturb your chosen location too much when placing the cameras.
The cameras will carry a scent that animals can smell, and also your handling of the camera will leave a scent on the camera and the area. When I placed my first camera on a game trail to try and capture a cougar, a large Black Bear came over and liked the lens! See Bears on the Pitt River here.
On another occasion a camera I placed on a trail had a Black Bear walk by it 4 times over 5 days. The 5th time the bear came by it caught a smell of it, didn’t like it and bashed it around eventually knocking it to the ground. See the The Black Bear Bash here.
On my last shoot with 3 of these cameras placed within feet of Grizzly and Black Bears they didn’t notice the cameras at all, and sometimes seem to pose for a picture.
The reason for this is the cameras were placed near a stream full of spawning salmon, so the bears were more interested in the smells of the food source and had keyed in on that scent. During this outing the cameras were in place for two weeks and I have over 3 hours of video to review, edit and produce. So stay tuned for the “Bears in the Woods” feature to come.
Links:
- Published in PhotoBlog
Which Tripod?
Tripods and Monopods
Over 30 odd years of being a photographer I have purchased many tripods amounting to $1000’s of dollars. What I learned is that I should have bought one good tripod and kept it for life.
Whats a good tripod you may well ask? And the answer would be it depends! The best tripod is one that you carry with you and use. So that means it should be lightweight (so you will carry it) and expensive (so that you will use it) if you buy a cheap heavy tripod it will probably never leave home.
What features should you look for in a tripod? These can be broken down into two types. Still photo tripods and Video tripods lets look at Still photography tripods first. I look for a still photography tripod without all the bells and whistles which means no fancy locking mechanisms for the legs, and definitely a simple tripod head without and all sorts of handles. These handles and fancy leg locks will just get broken off or stop functioning over a few months or years of use.
Next consider the weight of camera/lens combination you will be using on your tripod. The heavier camera and lens combination you plan to use on your tripod means that you will need a heavier, beefier tripod and tripod head.
So where to start? I purchase a Tripod and Tripod Head separately and I have three weights of tripods I use. Which tripod I will take will depend on the nature of my trip and the cameras I will be placing on them, here is what I currently use with links to the manufacturers website.
Still Photography Tripods
Light Weight (Backpacking) – Gitzo G1057 Carbon 6X
Medium Weight (Air Travel) – Gitzo Mountaineer G1228 great to carry, pack in your suitcase for travel.
Heavy Weight (The Ultimate in Support) – Gitzo Mountaineer G1348 needs an optional center column.
Tripod Heads
Ball Heads are a favourite of mine because they are sturdy, strong and versatile little workhorses. Remember to get a camera plate to match your camera/lens combination to the ball head of your choice.
There are lots of choices out there but the companies I turn to are
Video Tripods
With most DSLR’s capable of shooting full HD video these days the need to have a “video tripod” will become rapidly evident if you plan to pan during a shot.
While you can use still photo tripod for “locked down shots” in video it’s not designed to do pans where a levelling base or bowl with and a fluid head is needed where not only the tripod can be levelled, but the head van be levelled as well. This will allow a true horizontal pan during a shot and the use of a fluid head will ensure that a smooth pan both horizontally or vertically is attained. You can use a video tripod for still photography as a video tripod can be locked into position but generally you will find that video tripods are bulkier and heavier than still camera tripods.
What do I use will again it depends on shoots I want to take only one tripod I will use one of my Gitzo tripods and take a Ball head? But I when I want to shoot video I will attach a Acratech leveling base and a Gitzo fluid head this is a real slick hybrid I place on my still camera tripod for travelling
Looking for a good inexpensive video tripod for lightweight DSLR Video shoots? check out this Pearstone entry level Video Tripod VT2500B
And if you need something more robust my current favourite is this
Manfrotto Pro Video Head 504HD
with the Manfrotto 545B Pro Heavy-Duty
The bottom line do a little thinking about the shooting you plan to do with your tripod. How heavy is the gear plan to use, is video an important factor. Are you staying near home or studio for shoots or flying, hiking for shoots.
Remember buy a good one that fits your needs and make sure you use your new purchase!
- Published in PhotoBlog
Using VR Lenses on a Tripod
Vibration Reduction (VR) is one of the standard questions that comes up in seminars I do. Can I use Nikon’s VR lenses on a Tripod? And the answer is… Maybe!
Here is what Nikon says:
There are two techniques when using a camera/lens mounted on a tripod; keeping the pan/tilt head loose or fluid (when panning or moving with a subject) and keeping the pan/tilt head locked down and rigid while using a cable release (time exposures or for the new HDR techniques).
With the following lenses/cameras VR should be “Off” when the camera is mounted on a tripod and the pan/tilt head is locked down and using a cable release:
- 105mm f/2.8G ED-IF AF-S VR Micro Nikkor
- 18-200mm f3.5-5.6 ED-IF AF-S VR DX Zoom-Nikkor
- 24-120mm f3.5-5.6G ED-IF AF-S VR Zoom-Nikkor
- 70-200mm f2.8G ED-IF AF-S VR Zoom-Nikkor
- 80-400mm f4.5-5.6D ED VR AF Zoom-Nikkor
- 70-300mm f4.5-5.6G IF-ED AF-S VR Zoom-Nikkor
- Coolpix 8800
With the following lenses/cameras VR should be “On” when the camera is mounted on a tripod and the pan/tilt head is loose (fluid) while using the cameras shutter release button:
- 105mm f/2.8G ED-IF AF-S VR Micro Nikkor
- 18-200mm f3.5-5.6 ED-IF AF-S VR DX Zoom-Nikkor
- 24-120mm f3.5-5.6G ED-IF AF-S VR Zoom-Nikkor
- 70-200mm f2.8G ED-IF AF-S VR Zoom-Nikkor
- 80-400mm f4.5-5.6D ED VR AF Zoom-Nikkor
- 70-300mm f4.5-5.6G IF-ED AF-S VR Zoom-Nikkor
- Coolpix 8800
Tripod Detection Mode
A feature of select NIKKOR VR (Vibration Reduction) lenses, Tripod Detection Mode automatically reduces vibration due to shutter release when the camera is mounted on a tripod.
It is often thought that using a tripod can fully prevent image blur caused by camera movement. But in fact, a tripod can minutely vibrate due to mirror and/or shutter movement at the time of exposure. This can result in slight blurring of the image. Nikon’s VR function automatically differentiates the frequency of this vibration from that of hand movement, and changes the algorithm to correct the image blur caused by this tripod movement. This feature is installed in some VR lenses, particularly super-telephoto lenses that are often used with a tripod. The following lenses employ an exclusive “Tripod mode” with which you can set this function at will.
- 200-400mm f4G ED-IF AF-S VR Zoom-Nikkor
- 200mm f2G ED-IF AF-S VR Nikkor
- 300mm f2.8G ED-IF AF-S VR Nikkor
- 400mm f/2.8G ED AF-S VR Nikkor
- 500mm f/4G ED AF-S VR Nikkor
- 600mm f/4G ED AF-S VR Nikkor
For all lenses VR should be “On” when the camera/lens is used on a monopod.
The Bottom Line
So what do I do? When using my VR lens on a tripod that is locked down into position. I will turn VR off and then if I remember that I am using a lens with Tripod Detection Mode I will turn it on. Anytime I am using a Tripod that is not locked down, or using a Monopod I will turn VR on.
- Published in PhotoBlog
Self Assignment
Every once and a while I will post a “Self Assignment” it is something that I do on an infrequent basis just to keep my brain sharp when it comes to photography. It is a just for fun “assignment” not that I need much inspiration to go out and take a picture. It’s good for your brain to get out from behind a computer and go for a walk and look at the life that surrounds us. My self assignment this time was to creatively photograph a fire hydrant.
Seems simple enough a go out and capture a bright red object….. simple huh? You try it!
- Published in PhotoBlog